My fascination with Japan began over an early 90's summer; when my older brother returned home from a tour as an F-18 pilot and C-130 engineer for the United States Navy.
After three steps in the front door, he set two rucksacks on the floor before hugging my mother hello. One rucksack had attached to it a white rectangular tag, bearing a cherry red orb at its center.
Settled in for a week, eventually he called me to his room and pulled various cloth bundles from the mystery bag from days before. He unrolled the first, and dozens of VHS boxes bearing the word 'MACROSS' spilled from it. Another he unrolled the next with more finesse, pulling back the last layer to reveal a black katana, cobalt wakizashi, and a plethora of shurikens I of course was eternally banned from touching.
By that summer's end, the culture of Japan had inflexibly rooted itself in my mind as a place to experience in person.
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Fast forward through two decades, and what started as a simple and shared American fascination with all things ninja in the 90's morphed to more pressing contemplation. More important to me was the concept of quietude; living among others peacefully, quietly, efficiently and cleanly. I had many questions about Japan that I hoped would be answered in our 12 days in the East.
-Where did the seemingly parallel relationship found in my culture as an African American come from?
-How do we exist as both poets and warriors in an age where it seems as if we're unsure of if either should exist?
-What connects our cultures in regards to our daily routines, and opposite that, what makes it feel so enigmatic to be in Japan?
Before we went to Japan in the Fall of 2017, I did my best not to hype my mind up on all the stories of mystery and intrigue built up by years of what I've seen through a handful of mediums. Fortunately, it surpassed all the dreams and hype I could have ever mustered.
Two weeks isn't enough to solve all of ones internal mysteries in the Land of the Rising Sun, but let me walk you through its ancient light from my perspective... and before I get ahead of myself, let's talk about getting there in the first place….oh and if you’re a fan of music, I built a playlist that helped organize everything I saw in my mind. This paper is named after the song ‘Kids See Ghosts’ because of the collaboration between the G.O.O.D. Music family, and artist Takashi Murakami for the album of the same name’s cover art. Visually and lyrically, the song mirrored many of my own thoughts that seemed as inquisitive as Kid Cudi’s verse.
I built a playlist of songs that I listened to while trekking through the country, and should you make your way there, you’ll likely be inspired to do the same. It feels like walking through endless movie scenes, so why not score it?
|Getting to Japan|
The checklist for traveling to Japan is short, but critical if travelling from the United States. Tickets are likely upward of $900 unless you come across a solid deal on sites like Scott's Cheap Flights.
You've probably heard about the efficient and fast trains of Japan, but not about how to get tickets to said greatness. Japan's rail systems are owned by several companies, with the most crucial to your trip (assuming Tokyo isn't your only stop) being Japan Railways Group. It works with just about all lines in Japan, with a handful of exceptions. You can purchase a pass for the lines that Japan Railways Group operates on called a JR Pass that will grant unlimited usage of the railways, including the Shinkansen 700 bullet train in-between major cities.
Most importantly, you must buy your JR Pass BEFORE you get to Japan, so give yourself at least a month to order and receive yours by mail. There are several sites to purchase one, and we went with the 7 Day pass you can find here.
The pass timer starts after you use it the first time, so if you plan on being in Tokyo for a few days before making you way to say, Kyoto, wait until the train to Kyoto to activate your JR Pass. It will be cheaper in the long run to simply pay the normal fare while in Tokyo to get around, and save your pass for the long, expensive major city to major city rides.
‘Flying Into Tokyo’ by Magnetic Man | Narita International Airport, Arrivals.
|TOKYO|
The first of three legs of travel in Japan took place in Tokyo, with the Tobu Hotel serving as our base of operations in the city. Yoyogi Park is a few minutes away on foot, with fabled Shibuya crossing not far away either to lead to the city’s sprawling train system.
‘Sweet’ by Little Dragon | Starbucks next to Shibuya crossing has an excellent selection of matcha flavored treats with balcony views to match.
Shibuya Crossing. Stopping wasn’t an option.
After strolling through the streets of Shibuya and eventually figuring out the rail system maps, we headed North East to Ueno. Home to Ueno Zoo, Onshi Park, and the Tokyo National Museum; you’ll easily be able to spend a half a day at least exploring. Many visitors come here in the Spring due to the high amount of Cherry blossoms that bloom here every year.
Crusing through Ueno Park.
New signage is installed near the entrance to Ueno Zoo.
Exploring Onshi Park
‘Oppin’ by SwuM
As busy as you’ll find the streets of Tokyo, bikes old and new are everywhere.
Tōeizan Kan'ei-ji Endon-in, a powerful religious center completed in 1625. Built to the North-East of Edo Castle, it was created to defend from the evil spirits that attacked from this direction.
The 50 copper lanterns at Toshogushaden Karamonmae and Sando are not used for illumination. Instead they were built as offerings to the Daimyos (feudal lords) from all over Japan. The name of each donor is written on the base, and is collectively a designated National Treasure of Japan.
Shinobazuno Pond
‘Blessin’ It’ by Nujabes | Inside Shinobazunoike Bentendo Temple before a ceremony begins.
Sweet Lolita fashionistas on a stroll.
Outside Ueno station, Tokyo Skytree can be seen in the distance.
After a long day of exploring, we wanted to walk the area around Ueno in search of solid conveyor belt sushi spot.
Guess Waldo found a place in Japan.
Eva in our final stretch to finding her beloved sushi.
‘Lady Brown’ by Nujabes | A couple waits for a train back to Shibuya.
Accessed from Harajuka Station, Takeshita Street is a prime location to grab “sweet” and “cute” style gifts, along with seeing the latest products in the various seed stores that the area flaunts.
Arriving at Shibuya Station, on our way back to relax before an evening out.
Outside Omote-Sando Station on the way to dinner with local friends.
Entrepreneur, artist, and friend of over a decade; Tomo Saito sits with members of Daybreaker to discuss their Tokyo rollout. Originally from the Gifu prefecture, he now resides in Los Angeles\San Francisco but was home to celebrate his birthday.
We met at an open air food hall called Commune 2nd. Here you’ll find an assortment of beers, sausages, bread, and all the salty-savory snacks you can handle. I opted for fried squid and potatoes.
Back in Ueno Park- Because it was closed on our first visit, we made our way to the Tokyo National Museum to finally get a look.
‘Disparate Youth’ by Santigold | A group of teens celebrates the end of the day.
Established in 1872, the Tokyo National Museum is one of the largest art museums in the world. Focusing on ancient Japanese and Asian art from along the Silk Road, it also contains an substantial amount of Greco-Buddhist art. This was taken outside the Honkan building.
When you gotta hit up 7-Eleven to supplies for the homie who went to hard that night.
We explore the collection of the vast array of items a samurai kept dear. Anyone from or who sympathize with the members of the warrior classes across the world all have a profound appreciation over the enigmatic beauty of samurai culture. it always seemed strange to me that western cultures have move away from implementing rulers with less overall life experience. It’s been proven that well rounded leaders thrive.
I could spend a lifetime studying the swords of Japan. I’m still hard pressed to think of anything built with more care with parallel strength.
Riding gear of a samurai archer.
A kimono made for a woman of the samurai class to be worn in the summer.
A daimyo (feudal lord) doll procession with stunning detail. These stood about 4 inches tall.
‘All Y’all’ by Timbaland | Tomo took time to show me his favorite spots in Tokyo on his birthday.
Cruising to a bar, I found that the culture discovery mission was a mutual one between Japan and West Africa.
Inside the tiny RED bar. Be careful though, no photos are allowed, and the drinks are strong.
A Mario Cart city tour dabs on traffic for me on the streets of Shibuya.
‘Powerglide’ by Rae Sremmurd | DJ KARIN’s infamous pink and copper Lamborghini Aventador.
Tomo introduced me to a place called Ichiran ramen, and it is hands down the best I’ve ever had. This was my second visit of the day. Post drinking food in Japan may as well be called soul food.
Our last full day in Tokyo we made a slower trek through Yoyogi Park to get a better feel on daily life in the city.
A photoshoot in progress.
‘People Like Myself’ by Timbaland & Magoo | Reading in Yoyogi park.
Teens get ambushed by an interview team.
The gates to the Meiji Shrine. Emperor Meiji was the leader of a time known as the Meiji Restoration, where much of Japan was transformed from politics, to art, and several other pillars of Japanese life.
Sake offerings to the spirit of the Emperor.
Visitors gather to wash their hands before prayer in the shrine.
A family of spiders watches over the pond.
‘All Matter’ by The Robert Glasper Experiment
The Meiji Jingu Inner Garden holds a powerfully significant area; Kiyomasa’s Well. The water was so clear and still it seemed like light hung above it.
A couple pauses to cool down from the fall heat before heading to the sun again after a long day.
‘Tea Leaf Dancers’ by Flying Lotus feat. Andreya Triana | A team of dancers practices for a hip hop dance routine.
This time, it was Eva’s birthday, and since we couldn’t get tickets to the Studio Ghibli tour, we made way to Setagaya for dessert.
We can’t remember exactly, but it was around here when we realized how familar this part of town looked. Finally we realized, after decades in the United States watching anime, that the cities you see in daily life anime were not fictional, but instead gorgeous pathways among quiet neighborhoods.
Interestingly enough, this newspaper was an old story, and not related to the nuclear talks with North Korea happening this same month.
‘Feeling Good’ by Nina Simone | Ghibli, cream puffs, her favorite books in the corner, and Nina Simone on the radio. A birthday well spent.
KYOTO
The second leg of our adventure would be aboard a Shinkansen 700 bullet train to Kyoto. Japan’s old capitol, its a beautiful blend of modern life and ancient wisdom along every street. Riding in it felt like birds gliding along a riverbank. The cone of the train is shaped like a birds beak (in fact, its based on many animals) to cut through the air more efficiently.
‘Kids See Ghosts’ by GOOD Music | Mount Fuji is hugged by clouds as we travel on a rainy morning.
While the Fushimi Inari Shrine is a must see, you’d best get there around 7am if you intend on getting that perfect solo shot. We were more dedicated to sleep.
A group of kids on school trip exchanged their questions about our visit to Japan for a photo. Wish you all the best!
‘Can’t Hear Mosquitone Any More #1’ by toe
‘Cat Rider’ by Little Dragon
After lunch at the bottom of the hillside under this cross-stone building, we made our way back to downtown Kyoto.
‘Freelance’ by Toro y Moi
Locals and tourists alike enjoy the riverbank before making their way to Pontocho Alley for shopping, food, and sightseeing.
Izumo no Okuni, originator of Kabuki Theatre.
Kyoto’s streets wind around shines built hundreds ago in a harmonious manner.
‘Violet (The Upper Room)’ by Cunninlynguists
I disturb a discussion with my camera clicks as we enter the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove. Perhaps Canon is reading and wants me to go full frame mirrorless as an ambassador..
‘These Paths’ by Yeah Yeah Yeahs | At the end of the grove, pay the $10 to see Okochi Sanso Garden. The paths and views were magnificent and lush in shades of green I didn’t know existed.
‘Next view’ by Nujabes
‘Highs 2 Lows’ by Nujabes feat. Cise Starr
This guy was dressed to cool not to follow through the city for a photo.
‘The Park’ by Cunninlynguists | Down the street from the bamboo forest, we stopped at the bank of the Katsura river for coffee.
Arabica % is worth the wait.
TAKAYAMA
The final leg of the trip took place in the hills of Takayama, a city known for its woodwork and year round beauty. Many locals retreat here for ski season. We hopped on a smaller train once back in Nagoya to enjoy the winding canyons and gorgeous small towns.
‘Love on a Real Train’ by Tangerine Dream
We made reservations at Hagi; the perfect perfect onsen experience coupled with a view of the city that still makes me smile.
While Kobe beef is well known back home, Hida beef is even more prized to those in the area. Much love to the staff at Kyoya down on the Enako River, your hospitality and food will stay in my fond memories for a long time to come.
If you’re up for an early stroll, head down to the river to check out the morning market.
It was only fitting that we ended our trip with a quiet night out for Hida beef ramen. Kajibashi cooks are absolutely heavenly.
Over a year later and we still talk about the experience of Japan for the first time. It didn’t need to be anything magic, only itself. It can be as busy as New York while also quiet as a Kansas country road in near perfect transition. The dedication to detail and hospitality was felt and respected in just about every person we met.
I still don’t think I got all of my answers solved, but I at least opened a new gateway of inspiration for the days ahead, with many great places to return and ponder in.
Arigatōgozaimashita!