Kids See Ghosts\Kizzu Wa Tokidoki Yūrei o Miru
Y’all can’t move me.
My fascination with Japan began over an early 90's summer; when my older brother returned home from a tour as an F-18 pilot and C-130 engineer for the United States Navy.
After three steps in the front door, he set two rucksacks on the floor before hugging my mother hello. One rucksack had attached to it a white rectangular tag, bearing a cherry red orb at its center.
Settled in for a week, eventually he called me to his room and pulled various cloth bundles from the mystery bag from days before. He unrolled the first, and dozens of VHS boxes bearing the word 'MACROSS' spilled from it. Another he unrolled the next with more finesse, pulling back the last layer to reveal a black katana, cobalt wakizashi, and a plethora of shurikens I of course was eternally banned from touching.
By that summer's end, the culture of Japan had inflexibly rooted itself in my mind as a place to experience in person.
+++
Fast forward through two decades, and what started as a simple and shared American fascination with all things ninja in the 90's morphed to more pressing contemplation. More important to me was the concept of quietude; living among others peacefully, quietly, efficiently and cleanly. I had many questions about Japan that I hoped would be answered in our 12 days in the East.
-Where did the seemingly parallel relationship found in my culture as an African American come from?
-How do we exist as both poets and warriors in an age where it seems as if we're unsure of if either should exist?
-What connects our cultures in regards to our daily routines, and opposite that, what makes it feel so enigmatic to be in Japan?
Before we went to Japan in the Fall of 2017, I did my best not to hype my mind up on all the stories of mystery and intrigue built up by years of what I've seen through a handful of mediums. Fortunately, it surpassed all the dreams and hype I could have ever mustered.
Two weeks isn't enough to solve all of ones internal mysteries in the Land of the Rising Sun, but let me walk you through its ancient light from my perspective... and before I get ahead of myself, let's talk about getting there in the first place….oh and if you’re a fan of music, I built a playlist that helped organize everything I saw in my mind. This paper is named after the song ‘Kids See Ghosts’ because of the collaboration between the G.O.O.D. Music family, and artist Takashi Murakami for the album of the same name’s cover art. Visually and lyrically, the song mirrored many of my own thoughts that seemed as inquisitive as Kid Cudi’s verse.
I built a playlist of songs that I listened to while trekking through the country, and should you make your way there, you’ll likely be inspired to do the same. It feels like walking through endless movie scenes, so why not score it?
|Getting to Japan|
The checklist for traveling to Japan is short, but critical if travelling from the United States. Tickets are likely upward of $900 unless you come across a solid deal on sites like Scott's Cheap Flights.
You've probably heard about the efficient and fast trains of Japan, but not about how to get tickets to said greatness. Japan's rail systems are owned by several companies, with the most crucial to your trip (assuming Tokyo isn't your only stop) being Japan Railways Group. It works with just about all lines in Japan, with a handful of exceptions. You can purchase a pass for the lines that Japan Railways Group operates on called a JR Pass that will grant unlimited usage of the railways, including the Shinkansen 700 bullet train in-between major cities.
Most importantly, you must buy your JR Pass BEFORE you get to Japan, so give yourself at least a month to order and receive yours by mail. There are several sites to purchase one, and we went with the 7 Day pass you can find here.
The pass timer starts after you use it the first time, so if you plan on being in Tokyo for a few days before making you way to say, Kyoto, wait until the train to Kyoto to activate your JR Pass. It will be cheaper in the long run to simply pay the normal fare while in Tokyo to get around, and save your pass for the long, expensive major city to major city rides.
‘Flying Into Tokyo’ by Magnetic Man | Narita International Airport, Arrivals.
|TOKYO|
The first of three legs of travel in Japan took place in Tokyo, with the Tobu Hotel serving as our base of operations in the city. Yoyogi Park is a few minutes away on foot, with fabled Shibuya crossing not far away either to lead to the city’s sprawling train system.
‘Sweet’ by Little Dragon | Starbucks next to Shibuya crossing has an excellent selection of matcha flavored treats with balcony views to match.
Shibuya Crossing. Stopping wasn’t an option.
After strolling through the streets of Shibuya and eventually figuring out the rail system maps, we headed North East to Ueno. Home to Ueno Zoo, Onshi Park, and the Tokyo National Museum; you’ll easily be able to spend a half a day at least exploring. Many visitors come here in the Spring due to the high amount of Cherry blossoms that bloom here every year.
Crusing through Ueno Park.
New signage is installed near the entrance to Ueno Zoo.
Exploring Onshi Park
‘Oppin’ by SwuM
As busy as you’ll find the streets of Tokyo, bikes old and new are everywhere.
Tōeizan Kan'ei-ji Endon-in, a powerful religious center completed in 1625. Built to the North-East of Edo Castle, it was created to defend from the evil spirits that attacked from this direction.
The 50 copper lanterns at Toshogushaden Karamonmae and Sando are not used for illumination. Instead they were built as offerings to the Daimyos (feudal lords) from all over Japan. The name of each donor is written on the base, and is collectively a designated National Treasure of Japan.
Shinobazuno Pond
‘Blessin’ It’ by Nujabes | Inside Shinobazunoike Bentendo Temple before a ceremony begins.
Sweet Lolita fashionistas on a stroll.
Outside Ueno station, Tokyo Skytree can be seen in the distance.
After a long day of exploring, we wanted to walk the area around Ueno in search of solid conveyor belt sushi spot.
Guess Waldo found a place in Japan.
Eva in our final stretch to finding her beloved sushi.
‘Lady Brown’ by Nujabes | A couple waits for a train back to Shibuya.
Accessed from Harajuka Station, Takeshita Street is a prime location to grab “sweet” and “cute” style gifts, along with seeing the latest products in the various seed stores that the area flaunts.
Arriving at Shibuya Station, on our way back to relax before an evening out.
Outside Omote-Sando Station on the way to dinner with local friends.
Entrepreneur, artist, and friend of over a decade; Tomo Saito sits with members of Daybreaker to discuss their Tokyo rollout. Originally from the Gifu prefecture, he now resides in Los Angeles\San Francisco but was home to celebrate his birthday.
We met at an open air food hall called Commune 2nd. Here you’ll find an assortment of beers, sausages, bread, and all the salty-savory snacks you can handle. I opted for fried squid and potatoes.
Back in Ueno Park- Because it was closed on our first visit, we made our way to the Tokyo National Museum to finally get a look.
‘Disparate Youth’ by Santigold | A group of teens celebrates the end of the day.
Established in 1872, the Tokyo National Museum is one of the largest art museums in the world. Focusing on ancient Japanese and Asian art from along the Silk Road, it also contains an substantial amount of Greco-Buddhist art. This was taken outside the Honkan building.
When you gotta hit up 7-Eleven to supplies for the homie who went to hard that night.
We explore the collection of the vast array of items a samurai kept dear. Anyone from or who sympathize with the members of the warrior classes across the world all have a profound appreciation over the enigmatic beauty of samurai culture. it always seemed strange to me that western cultures have move away from implementing rulers with less overall life experience. It’s been proven that well rounded leaders thrive.
I could spend a lifetime studying the swords of Japan. I’m still hard pressed to think of anything built with more care with parallel strength.
Riding gear of a samurai archer.
A kimono made for a woman of the samurai class to be worn in the summer.
A daimyo (feudal lord) doll procession with stunning detail. These stood about 4 inches tall.
‘All Y’all’ by Timbaland | Tomo took time to show me his favorite spots in Tokyo on his birthday.
Cruising to a bar, I found that the culture discovery mission was a mutual one between Japan and West Africa.
Inside the tiny RED bar. Be careful though, no photos are allowed, and the drinks are strong.
A Mario Cart city tour dabs on traffic for me on the streets of Shibuya.
‘Powerglide’ by Rae Sremmurd | DJ KARIN’s infamous pink and copper Lamborghini Aventador.
Tomo introduced me to a place called Ichiran ramen, and it is hands down the best I’ve ever had. This was my second visit of the day. Post drinking food in Japan may as well be called soul food.
Our last full day in Tokyo we made a slower trek through Yoyogi Park to get a better feel on daily life in the city.
A photoshoot in progress.
‘People Like Myself’ by Timbaland & Magoo | Reading in Yoyogi park.
Teens get ambushed by an interview team.
The gates to the Meiji Shrine. Emperor Meiji was the leader of a time known as the Meiji Restoration, where much of Japan was transformed from politics, to art, and several other pillars of Japanese life.
Sake offerings to the spirit of the Emperor.
Visitors gather to wash their hands before prayer in the shrine.
A family of spiders watches over the pond.
‘All Matter’ by The Robert Glasper Experiment
The Meiji Jingu Inner Garden holds a powerfully significant area; Kiyomasa’s Well. The water was so clear and still it seemed like light hung above it.
A couple pauses to cool down from the fall heat before heading to the sun again after a long day.
‘Tea Leaf Dancers’ by Flying Lotus feat. Andreya Triana | A team of dancers practices for a hip hop dance routine.
This time, it was Eva’s birthday, and since we couldn’t get tickets to the Studio Ghibli tour, we made way to Setagaya for dessert.
We can’t remember exactly, but it was around here when we realized how familar this part of town looked. Finally we realized, after decades in the United States watching anime, that the cities you see in daily life anime were not fictional, but instead gorgeous pathways among quiet neighborhoods.
Interestingly enough, this newspaper was an old story, and not related to the nuclear talks with North Korea happening this same month.
‘Feeling Good’ by Nina Simone | Ghibli, cream puffs, her favorite books in the corner, and Nina Simone on the radio. A birthday well spent.
KYOTO
The second leg of our adventure would be aboard a Shinkansen 700 bullet train to Kyoto. Japan’s old capitol, its a beautiful blend of modern life and ancient wisdom along every street. Riding in it felt like birds gliding along a riverbank. The cone of the train is shaped like a birds beak (in fact, its based on many animals) to cut through the air more efficiently.
‘Kids See Ghosts’ by GOOD Music | Mount Fuji is hugged by clouds as we travel on a rainy morning.
While the Fushimi Inari Shrine is a must see, you’d best get there around 7am if you intend on getting that perfect solo shot. We were more dedicated to sleep.
A group of kids on school trip exchanged their questions about our visit to Japan for a photo. Wish you all the best!
‘Can’t Hear Mosquitone Any More #1’ by toe
‘Cat Rider’ by Little Dragon
After lunch at the bottom of the hillside under this cross-stone building, we made our way back to downtown Kyoto.
‘Freelance’ by Toro y Moi
Locals and tourists alike enjoy the riverbank before making their way to Pontocho Alley for shopping, food, and sightseeing.
Izumo no Okuni, originator of Kabuki Theatre.
Kyoto’s streets wind around shines built hundreds ago in a harmonious manner.
‘Violet (The Upper Room)’ by Cunninlynguists
I disturb a discussion with my camera clicks as we enter the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove. Perhaps Canon is reading and wants me to go full frame mirrorless as an ambassador..
‘These Paths’ by Yeah Yeah Yeahs | At the end of the grove, pay the $10 to see Okochi Sanso Garden. The paths and views were magnificent and lush in shades of green I didn’t know existed.
‘Next view’ by Nujabes
‘Highs 2 Lows’ by Nujabes feat. Cise Starr
This guy was dressed to cool not to follow through the city for a photo.
‘The Park’ by Cunninlynguists | Down the street from the bamboo forest, we stopped at the bank of the Katsura river for coffee.
Arabica % is worth the wait.
TAKAYAMA
The final leg of the trip took place in the hills of Takayama, a city known for its woodwork and year round beauty. Many locals retreat here for ski season. We hopped on a smaller train once back in Nagoya to enjoy the winding canyons and gorgeous small towns.
‘Love on a Real Train’ by Tangerine Dream
We made reservations at Hagi; the perfect perfect onsen experience coupled with a view of the city that still makes me smile.
While Kobe beef is well known back home, Hida beef is even more prized to those in the area. Much love to the staff at Kyoya down on the Enako River, your hospitality and food will stay in my fond memories for a long time to come.
If you’re up for an early stroll, head down to the river to check out the morning market.
It was only fitting that we ended our trip with a quiet night out for Hida beef ramen. Kajibashi cooks are absolutely heavenly.
Over a year later and we still talk about the experience of Japan for the first time. It didn’t need to be anything magic, only itself. It can be as busy as New York while also quiet as a Kansas country road in near perfect transition. The dedication to detail and hospitality was felt and respected in just about every person we met.
I still don’t think I got all of my answers solved, but I at least opened a new gateway of inspiration for the days ahead, with many great places to return and ponder in.
Arigatōgozaimashita!
Cuna de la Revolución
With citizens of the United States able to travel to Cuba for the first time since the late 1950's, I took a journey into the cradle of the revolution.
Until recently, the island nation of Cuba has been shrouded in mystery for the majority of United States citizens, following the success of Fidel Castro's uprising against Fulgencio Bautisa's Cuba at the end of the 1950's. After a series of violations and affronts to the Eisenhower administration at that time, the US President placed official embargoes to Cuba, while also formulating a plan to take Fidel out of power.
Just a few months into his presidency, Eisenhower's successor John F. Kennedy signs off on Eisenhower's final play against the dictator 90 miles across the water. Known commonly as the CIA orchestrated Bay of Pigs invasion, the move to usurp Castro on April 17th, 1961 would fail spectacularly only three days later on April 20th.
Around the same time, the United States parked Jupiter missiles with nuclear warheads meant as a flex move against the Soviet Union; a strong Cuban ally. The response from Russia was their own placement of missiles in Cuba, in part of what we know as the Cuban Missile Crisis. In the decades following, the average American heard little about Cuba, great baseball players and the Elián González incident in 2000 not withstanding.
During Barack Obama's Presidency, layers of the tension peeled away in diplomacy between him and Fidel's brother Raul Castro. Cuban Americans were the first to be allowed passage back home starting in 2009. Then, students and religious missionaries took the stage. Now on a culture exchanged grounded classification of "People to People", United States citizens can travel to a true cradle of revolution.
Decades of isolation from the Cold War finally able to thaw out, and I'm grateful the Cuban people shared their country with us with open arms and a case of cold Bucanero. It will take some time and research before I'll full be able to express my feelings on Cuba as a whole, but I wanted to share choice photos, and information I think may help if you're headed there.
Before getting to the photos, I'll address the FAQ's I've heard about Cuba below from my fellow United States citizens:
- How do I get into the country legally as a United States citizen?
-You'll buy a plane ticket through your online portal of choice, after which you'll likely be contacted and directed to your airline's visa page at Cuba Travel Services via email. For example, here's the American Airlines page I used. At the time of this writing, the price is $85, and you'll get your visa in the mail with a copy of how to fill it out.
After about a week I was called by Cuba Travel Services to verify my selection of visa request reason, which you'll have chosen from on their website if you purchased a visa there. Unless you're headed there for a particular allowed purpose (Journalistic Activity in my case), you'll choose the Educational\People to People visa. Essentially it states you're in Cuba on the notion of culture exchange.
If you don't buy it online, you can purchase one at the gate before your flight that takes you into Cuban airspace. Cuba Travel Services will have a kiosk with a visa price set to $100 right in front of your gate.
That's about it.
- How does the whole money thing work down there for us?
Unfortunately your plastic will be rendered completely useless, so take US dollars with you. We changed out our money to the Canadian dollar, but Cuban officials will likely give you shade, and ask if you have US money instead in cold jest. Plus, the conversion rate was a pain to keep track of anyway.
I'm not wholly sure the economics of it, but the mindset of most of the Cubans we met was to back their banks with our money, ensuring our overall relations to move forward. You'll be penalized pretty much no matter which way you convert your money, so do as you will. Most importantly I recommend $800 cash per week's travel, unless you have some extravagant excursions planned.
- How did you find a place to stay, and get around the island?
We booked all of our stay through AirBnB. Since people from across the world have been visiting for decades now, renting systems are fairly well established. Hostels are an option, and you'll see signs for them regularly, but that I can't speak to.
Either way, your host will likely be the best source of information. Hosts are happy to set up rides around and outside of Havana, since being a taxi driver is more lucrative than being a doctor at this point it seems. With business, Cuba remains largely word of mouth due to the lack of a strong telecommunications infrastructure. Social media promotion won't arrive here for some time.
I highly recommend getting a physical travel book to bring with you. We took the DK Eyewitness Travel Guide and it comes complete with walking and driving maps, day plans, things to expect, and a good deal more.
- What's the food\drink situation like?
Unfortunately, the best food is shipped off of the island, due to the government power have first dibs on the best of crops and supplies. I'd say stick to the Cubano sandwich, or black beans and rice as often as possible. Average meal cost is $5, although you'll pay double that at any Trip Adviser labeled spot.The average cocktail price is $2, and bartenders pour HEAVY.
- What's the primary language?
Spanish speakers will have an easy time, however I'd say no more than 15 percent of the people I interacted with spoke English. Google translate doesn't work on the island, so you'd better practice. Honestly though, I returned home with a renewed itch to learn and travel to more Spanish speaking territories after going to Cuba.
- What were some of the things you guys did you'd recommend?
1. Visiting the museums in the heart of Havana.
2. Walking the city streets of Havana, popping into various bars to have a drink and stay cool, or to catch a jam\dance session on a city corner.
3. Taking a tour of Havana in a classic car.
4. Dancing in a cave club on a hilltop in Trinidad. This one is a mystery you should find out by asking around town. Trust me, it'll be more fun that way.
5. Horseback riding through Valley de Viñales should absolutely be on your list of things to do.
6. Spend at least one evening at Fábrica de Arte Cubano. It's feels like a vision of Cuba's artistic and social future.
Approaching Havana from Miami; patches of redistributed farm land stand testament to the policies of FIdel's revolution. One of the duties of the infamous Che Guevara after the revolution was to head the Instituto Nacional de Reforma Agraria, a government agency created to handle infrastructure tasks like road building and protecting the order of land redistribution and re-tasking where needed.
Cab drivers have a smoke while waiting near terminal 3 at Havana's José Martí International Airport with a Russian made classic.
Morning in Havana. Roosters are often louder than the traffic.
Brutalist architechture is apparently everywhere in Havana, and dotted in parts of smaller cities.
The original impetus behind my journal to Cuba: documenting classic cars from the last era of American business partnership. Many of the car parts in these cars have been replaced with home made spares, and mismatching parts. Overall though, very few of the old beasts were broken down on the road.
José Martí Memorial tower stands at 109 meters (358 feet) tall in Plaza de la Revolución. The Plaza is a centerpiece of Castro's Cuba, with many important rallies being held there since its completion in 1959.
Cars gather regularly in the square, and take a break while tourists of all walks admire the classics.
Jungles push up against Havana's city limits; a lush green nearly year round.
Our wheelman from downtown to the outskirts. He displays what I believe to be an MS-13 tattoo on his hand with pride.
Located on the Malecón, the US Embassy had been shuttered for over 50 years until the Obama presidency. Even now it stands fairly quiet it seems.
After a public formation, the special police gear up and salute their CO. Some are glad to see me.
Outside the Havana Cathedral; one of the 11 Roman Catholic cathedrals on the island, and completed in 1777.
The Havana Biennial Art Exhibition takes places every two years; its primary purpose to bring about the Cuban contemporary art circles.
The hammer and sickle; the iconic symbol of Russia's Communist Revolution. It was commonplace to see these along with Russian architecture and vehicles.
A cocotaxi baking in the afternoon sun. While they only carry two passengers, they are generally less expensive but much louder than a taxi.
A bust of Ernest Hemingway by José Villa Soberón sits inside the El Floridita bar. It served as one of Ernest's favorite watering holes from his time there between 1932 and 1939. While it wasn't the birthplace of the daiquiri, it is known as the cradle of it with bartender and later owner Constantino Vert at the helm, coupled with Hemingway as the resident tester. The bar still stands a powerful testing ground for juice based cocktail pros.
Em danced just about ever chance she could get with the constant live beats found about Cuba.
A city patrol talks about baseball.
Cuba had some of the most unique paintjobs I'd ever seen.
The capitol currently under renovation. notice the clean walls and pillars on the right hand side, with the left hand side next for its close up.
An old mural of a cartoon was covered up, over it a scene of Spanish ships, and African slaves beating drums and floating with spectral chains.
Landlines are abundant in Havana, as cell service is very limited throughout the island.
The 99% pulling down the corporate giant. Written all over are the names of the biggest companies in the world.
Any given afternoon you can get in on a futbol game.
The Malecón is the most popular spot in Cuba. Crowds of people hugged the sea wall for miles to watch the sunset on a warm Sunday evening.
Founded in 1514, sunset in Trinidad de Cuba was humbling every time.
The coblestone streets still remain, couples gorgeously with the washed out pastels that Cuba is known for.
Los Pinos takes a break while a young Cuban boy admires the trio.
Technical know-how is a must in Cuba. Fresh replacement parts for most cars are near impossible to get.
Kids play at school while we trek through the Escambray mountains.
Revolutionary backyards.
Most of the natives in Cuba rocked a greaser cut with shaved sides, but Dan stuck to his El Papa look.
An average day after school in Trinidad.
Rain rolling into the center of Trinidad over one of the many churches in the city on our last evening in Trinidad.
Apparently Mexican coke isn't as much a rarity in Cuba.
What most people will tell you is the most impressive scene in Cuba: Valley de Viñales. Limestone cliffs called mogotes raise from the floor of the tobacco farms of the basin.
Katie andTequila riding through an old town near the farms of Viñales.
At the house of our guide, his wife shows us their arabica bean treatment process.
A lemon being cut for open before making the afternoon summer sipper of your dreams.
We poured fresh sugarcane juice and rum into the lemon, the squeezed it to let the juice from the lemon mix in. Sip and repeat.
Our wheelman to Viñales was a man named Jiovannis, and his car was not only the best kept I'd seen, but his 80's music collection was pretty impressive. I have his contact information should you want to make the trip to the Valley. (You do.)
The Mural de la Prehistoria walks us through a chart of evolution in vivid color.
A storehouse of Cuba's crown jewel, the tobacco leaf. It takes 6 months from start to finish to complete the entire cigar making process.
The stem of the tobacco leaf contains 95 percent of the nicotine. Most Cuban's remove this in their rolling process. A fitting end to the primary part of our adventure.
I found Cuba and it's people to be profoundly active and driven. Even in a communist state, the push for a better world seems endless, and that's not a problem in their eyes. Its breathtakingly bittersweet to be enveloped in a world where community is titanic, but the supplies to reach your full potential are under a dictator's rule.
The more time I spent there, the less meaningful the embargo we have with Cuba felt. 90 miles away lies (at the very least) a portal to building blocks that Cuba needs to advance its infrastructure. The overall sense of thought towards US citizens in Cuba was overwhelmingly positive, but I never got the sense that Cuba will be as negatively changed as people in the US think it will become if the embargo is lifted.
Sure, pockets of all inclusive hotels will pop up, but luxury has existed in the heart of Havana for those who want it for some time now. I hope to see Cuba grow into a free state now that US-Cuba relations have begun to ease, and access to information increases.
This adventure further inspired me to take bigger leaps in the alcoves of the world to discover knowledge from around the globe. I'm also inspired to dig deeper into the particulars of Cuban society, and again visit the island someday with eyes open. Feel free to post any questions here, and make your way to Cuba while the classics still rule the streets.